This series has been amazing and timely, my girlfriend and I are moving to CDMX today and we’ve been trying our best to not perpetuate these issues. We both got temporary residency visas, have been studying Spanish for several years now and plan to live somewhere other than the popular places you point out in your article.
Sounds like you are off to a good start! Living outside of Roma and Condesa will almost automatically make for a more local experience! See you at the next Cuéntame? Sept 2nd at Haab Project.
I will definitely being coming to cuéntame! We’ve also found that exploring the many book stores of CDMX is a great way to practice Spanish and find great books on the history of Mexico!
I really appreciate this series on CDMX. I lived there in 2019 and 2020 until the pandemic hit, and what you've written both here and in the previous newsletter ring true to my experiences in the city. And thanks for mentioning Cineteca National - I rarely see other foreigners talk about it but it's one of my favorite places. Looking forward to reading more from you - cheers!
Great suggestions for how to start to address some of these issues. To your list of things to do, I would add visit the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which is an amazing introduction to the history of this region. Reading your thoughts makes me feel good about having taken Spanish lessons from a local man while we were there and the numerous daytrips we took. I know our presence in CDMX had some downsides, but I feel like I can look myself in the mirror because we did really try to be good guests.
As for the masks, don't even get me started. We lived in Puerto Vallarta for seven months during the pandemic and it enraged me to see all of the Americans and Canadians coming to PV so they could act as if there was no pandemic happening.
Thanks for your comment. I agree about the Anthropology Museum. I suppose I was trying to think outside the box and considered it a classic. But you’re right, it’s the best place to understand the cultures of pre-Colombian Mexico.
And I totally feel you on the mask issue. I don’t like to police my fellow travelers, but passing through Sayulita on my drive south in Oct 2020 was pretty wild. Full on “conspirituality” vibe.
I hope I didn't sound like I was criticizing your list. It was a great list. I just mentioned it because when we first arrived in CDMX, I'd never even heard of it. Then afterward, all I could think was how in the world had I NOT ever heard of it.
But that's how I felt about CDMX in general. I'd heard of it of course, but I'd never really given it much thought. I suppose that's partly because of my familiarity with it thanks to having grown up in Colorado surrounded by a fair bit of Mexican culture, but probably more so due to American bias that looked down on all things Mexican, much less holding it up as an example of an amazing culture.
Which as you noted in the last newsletter, is one good thing about this moment -- CDMX is finally being given it's rightful due.
Not at all! It just made me realize that sometimes the classics are classic for a reason haha! Thanks for reading and participating in the conversation
Hi! Local here, outside of Downtown-Condesa-Juárez-Roma-Coyoacan. I have some recommendations near San Ángel and beyond:
Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil, small museum that holds art from Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros, and caters to really interesting exhibitions of contemporary art. You can plan a Saturday and visit Bazar del sábado, have breakfast around plaza de San Jacinto or Avenida de la Paz, and later visit the museum. Metrobús station Altavista or La Bombilla.
Grounds of Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM). Enjoy a Sunday at the “islas” to people watch, admire the outside mural at the Library Rectoría building. The Olympic Stadium is across the avenue from Rectoría, there’s an underpass for walkers and bikes.
Centro Cultural Universitario, UNAM's cultural and performing center. It is a space nestled between volcanic rock and there is a Library, Theater, Movie hall. Sala Nezahualcoyotl is an amazing concert hall. And on the main plaza, visit MUCA, an amazing and beautiful museum focused on contemporary art. You can also take the Metrobús to get there.
Hit me if you want more recommendations.
P.S. pay your cleaning ladies and workers wages above of what they ask for. And if a local artisan asks for a price, don’t bargain. Pay that price.
If you ride a bike, please be really really careful bit stay on roads or bike lines and don’t drive on the sidewalk. Respect pedestrians.
Thanks for the tips! I have done a few but not all. And I totally agree about paying cleaners extra if you can. An easy way to make a direct difference.
Forgot to add three additional nonfiction book recs that aren't necessarily CDMX-centric, but provide additional context for Americans on Mexico's complexities:
- Midnight in Mexico (intersection of media with drug war/politics/foreign policy), written by a CDMX-based Mexican-American journalist
- The Devil's Highway (immigration/border policy)
- This Love Is Not for Cowards (sports culture in Juarez during some of its toughest times)
Read all three in the last few years and they were excellent. Bad Mexicans sounds great and will add that to my to-do list as well.
I'm really loving this series, Marko! One subject I'd love to hear more about in regards to foreigners is tipping culture. I've visited Mexico a lot and some locals I've talked to say they expect foreigners (especially Americans) to tip 20% whereas some say it's not expected at all, and some have said if you do tip then 10% is more than enough. Also, is there an argument for seeking out Airbnbs that are actually hosted by local families so that they can benefit from the tourism, while the traveler benefits from meeting and living with locals? Indeed they tend to be few and far between these days, but by educating travelers on what to look for so that we can avoid the "bad" Airbnbs I think that could do a lot to help! I adore a boutique hotel as much as the next person but I have found that compared to living with the locals I find on Airbnb, staying in hotels of any sort sterilizes my travel experience and puts me in a "hotel bubble" of sorts. There's just nothing like having coffee with your local host/housemate in the morning, chatting about their life and the city they call home, and getting to know each other in a meaningful way.
Hi Paige, that’s a really good point about Airbnb’s. The issue is that you don’t really know for sure unless you pay a lot of attention to the comments. Another thought just came to mind - maybe search for private rooms to ensure the host lives in the house as well. That might filter out some of the commercial properties. Thanks for reading
Mexico City is huge. Mexico City is not Condesa-Colonia Roma. Have you read both articles? Some resentment is deeply rooted and not all is against foreigners. Keywords: classism and inequities.
The resentment has been specifically focused on foreigners. That was the point. Read the fun flier that lovely person wrote. Keyword: xenophobia, then classism and inequities. Foreigners are a small factor compared to Mexico's structural racism. And I've lived in that country enough years to have an opinion.
I've spent nine years in San Miguel (no, it is NOT Venice. The reality is far more complicated.) Having spent 30 years in NYC, I'm ready to be back in a big city and will be spending much of the Fall, maybe more in Mexico City. I'm older than most of your digital nomad crowd, but intrigued by what you are doing here. I vote for "Bad Mexicans", but let's also read/watch Paco Ignacio Taibo II.
Thank you for your comment, Cate. Certainly, there are differences between Venice and San Miguel (namely, cruise ships!). But I have heard locals mention San Miguel specifically as what Condesa could become in the sense that the differences in purchasing power between locals and foreigners can create a largely foreign enclave within Mexico. No offense to San Miguel or it’s residents - I personally think it’s beautiful and have close friends who live there - but this is a sentiment I have heard expressed apropos the current debate. I agree that Bad Mexicans looks great, but I’m actually leaning towards maybe some Mexican fiction - Pedro Páramo or Battles in the Desert are at the top of the list.
I just picked up the haunting story of Pedro Paramo for a re-read and I am willing to try anything that brings together a group of readers who want to dig more deeply into Mexican culture and history. A conversation about the gentrification of San Miguel would be interesting. A huge part of the story, though, has to do with this being such a small town with a huge concentration of insular English-speakers in relation to its size.
Totally. And I think that’s the reason it’s being compared to Roma and Condesa. It’s a small area (I believe smaller than San Miguel) that’s receiving a ton of foreigners. I also think the type of immigration is different, for better or for worse. While most US immigrants have historically been retirees looking to settle in a tranquil place and live off pensions, these new immigrants are largely single and at the peak of their earning careers with salaries pegged to the cost of living in SF or NYC. Furthermore, they are mostly looking for short term rentals, which distorts the real estate market even more.
This series has been amazing and timely, my girlfriend and I are moving to CDMX today and we’ve been trying our best to not perpetuate these issues. We both got temporary residency visas, have been studying Spanish for several years now and plan to live somewhere other than the popular places you point out in your article.
Sounds like you are off to a good start! Living outside of Roma and Condesa will almost automatically make for a more local experience! See you at the next Cuéntame? Sept 2nd at Haab Project.
I will definitely being coming to cuéntame! We’ve also found that exploring the many book stores of CDMX is a great way to practice Spanish and find great books on the history of Mexico!
I really appreciate this series on CDMX. I lived there in 2019 and 2020 until the pandemic hit, and what you've written both here and in the previous newsletter ring true to my experiences in the city. And thanks for mentioning Cineteca National - I rarely see other foreigners talk about it but it's one of my favorite places. Looking forward to reading more from you - cheers!
Thanks for reading! If you have any other tips for new arrivals please add them to this thread!
Great suggestions for how to start to address some of these issues. To your list of things to do, I would add visit the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which is an amazing introduction to the history of this region. Reading your thoughts makes me feel good about having taken Spanish lessons from a local man while we were there and the numerous daytrips we took. I know our presence in CDMX had some downsides, but I feel like I can look myself in the mirror because we did really try to be good guests.
As for the masks, don't even get me started. We lived in Puerto Vallarta for seven months during the pandemic and it enraged me to see all of the Americans and Canadians coming to PV so they could act as if there was no pandemic happening.
Thanks for your comment. I agree about the Anthropology Museum. I suppose I was trying to think outside the box and considered it a classic. But you’re right, it’s the best place to understand the cultures of pre-Colombian Mexico.
And I totally feel you on the mask issue. I don’t like to police my fellow travelers, but passing through Sayulita on my drive south in Oct 2020 was pretty wild. Full on “conspirituality” vibe.
I hope I didn't sound like I was criticizing your list. It was a great list. I just mentioned it because when we first arrived in CDMX, I'd never even heard of it. Then afterward, all I could think was how in the world had I NOT ever heard of it.
But that's how I felt about CDMX in general. I'd heard of it of course, but I'd never really given it much thought. I suppose that's partly because of my familiarity with it thanks to having grown up in Colorado surrounded by a fair bit of Mexican culture, but probably more so due to American bias that looked down on all things Mexican, much less holding it up as an example of an amazing culture.
Which as you noted in the last newsletter, is one good thing about this moment -- CDMX is finally being given it's rightful due.
Not at all! It just made me realize that sometimes the classics are classic for a reason haha! Thanks for reading and participating in the conversation
Of course. Few things are more important to me than this topic.
Hi! Local here, outside of Downtown-Condesa-Juárez-Roma-Coyoacan. I have some recommendations near San Ángel and beyond:
Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil, small museum that holds art from Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros, and caters to really interesting exhibitions of contemporary art. You can plan a Saturday and visit Bazar del sábado, have breakfast around plaza de San Jacinto or Avenida de la Paz, and later visit the museum. Metrobús station Altavista or La Bombilla.
Grounds of Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM). Enjoy a Sunday at the “islas” to people watch, admire the outside mural at the Library Rectoría building. The Olympic Stadium is across the avenue from Rectoría, there’s an underpass for walkers and bikes.
Centro Cultural Universitario, UNAM's cultural and performing center. It is a space nestled between volcanic rock and there is a Library, Theater, Movie hall. Sala Nezahualcoyotl is an amazing concert hall. And on the main plaza, visit MUCA, an amazing and beautiful museum focused on contemporary art. You can also take the Metrobús to get there.
Hit me if you want more recommendations.
P.S. pay your cleaning ladies and workers wages above of what they ask for. And if a local artisan asks for a price, don’t bargain. Pay that price.
If you ride a bike, please be really really careful bit stay on roads or bike lines and don’t drive on the sidewalk. Respect pedestrians.
Thanks for the tips! I have done a few but not all. And I totally agree about paying cleaners extra if you can. An easy way to make a direct difference.
Enjoyed reading this perspective. (Also just ordered a copy of Breaking Out of Beginner's Spanish to read before my next trip down.)
You'll really enjoy it! It's quite funny and very informative.
Forgot to add three additional nonfiction book recs that aren't necessarily CDMX-centric, but provide additional context for Americans on Mexico's complexities:
- Midnight in Mexico (intersection of media with drug war/politics/foreign policy), written by a CDMX-based Mexican-American journalist
- The Devil's Highway (immigration/border policy)
- This Love Is Not for Cowards (sports culture in Juarez during some of its toughest times)
Read all three in the last few years and they were excellent. Bad Mexicans sounds great and will add that to my to-do list as well.
I'm really loving this series, Marko! One subject I'd love to hear more about in regards to foreigners is tipping culture. I've visited Mexico a lot and some locals I've talked to say they expect foreigners (especially Americans) to tip 20% whereas some say it's not expected at all, and some have said if you do tip then 10% is more than enough. Also, is there an argument for seeking out Airbnbs that are actually hosted by local families so that they can benefit from the tourism, while the traveler benefits from meeting and living with locals? Indeed they tend to be few and far between these days, but by educating travelers on what to look for so that we can avoid the "bad" Airbnbs I think that could do a lot to help! I adore a boutique hotel as much as the next person but I have found that compared to living with the locals I find on Airbnb, staying in hotels of any sort sterilizes my travel experience and puts me in a "hotel bubble" of sorts. There's just nothing like having coffee with your local host/housemate in the morning, chatting about their life and the city they call home, and getting to know each other in a meaningful way.
Hi Paige, that’s a really good point about Airbnb’s. The issue is that you don’t really know for sure unless you pay a lot of attention to the comments. Another thought just came to mind - maybe search for private rooms to ensure the host lives in the house as well. That might filter out some of the commercial properties. Thanks for reading
I agree. Filtering for private rooms, reading the comments, and I’ve even messaged the host before booking to ask if they live onsite.
Sounds like a good plan! Let me know if it works out
It works! I do this for every trip and have never had a problem finding locals to live with (via Airbnb) in 25+ countries.
Pro hack!
Here's a tip about Mexico City: go somewhere else.
Why visit somewhere where people have bad or xenophobic attitudes?
Plenty of better and cheaper options in Mexico, Latin America, and beyond.
Mexico City is huge. Mexico City is not Condesa-Colonia Roma. Have you read both articles? Some resentment is deeply rooted and not all is against foreigners. Keywords: classism and inequities.
The resentment has been specifically focused on foreigners. That was the point. Read the fun flier that lovely person wrote. Keyword: xenophobia, then classism and inequities. Foreigners are a small factor compared to Mexico's structural racism. And I've lived in that country enough years to have an opinion.
Seen the flier IRL.
Fuck them. Hopefully someday they get punched in the face and get a dose of reality.
I've spent nine years in San Miguel (no, it is NOT Venice. The reality is far more complicated.) Having spent 30 years in NYC, I'm ready to be back in a big city and will be spending much of the Fall, maybe more in Mexico City. I'm older than most of your digital nomad crowd, but intrigued by what you are doing here. I vote for "Bad Mexicans", but let's also read/watch Paco Ignacio Taibo II.
Thank you for your comment, Cate. Certainly, there are differences between Venice and San Miguel (namely, cruise ships!). But I have heard locals mention San Miguel specifically as what Condesa could become in the sense that the differences in purchasing power between locals and foreigners can create a largely foreign enclave within Mexico. No offense to San Miguel or it’s residents - I personally think it’s beautiful and have close friends who live there - but this is a sentiment I have heard expressed apropos the current debate. I agree that Bad Mexicans looks great, but I’m actually leaning towards maybe some Mexican fiction - Pedro Páramo or Battles in the Desert are at the top of the list.
I just picked up the haunting story of Pedro Paramo for a re-read and I am willing to try anything that brings together a group of readers who want to dig more deeply into Mexican culture and history. A conversation about the gentrification of San Miguel would be interesting. A huge part of the story, though, has to do with this being such a small town with a huge concentration of insular English-speakers in relation to its size.
Totally. And I think that’s the reason it’s being compared to Roma and Condesa. It’s a small area (I believe smaller than San Miguel) that’s receiving a ton of foreigners. I also think the type of immigration is different, for better or for worse. While most US immigrants have historically been retirees looking to settle in a tranquil place and live off pensions, these new immigrants are largely single and at the peak of their earning careers with salaries pegged to the cost of living in SF or NYC. Furthermore, they are mostly looking for short term rentals, which distorts the real estate market even more.